Learn To Make Cheese

The more you take an interest in cheesemaking, the more you benefit from interacting with people who share your interests.  The Slow Food movement is a great place to start. We recently became aware of this Slow Food-related committee dedicated to American raw milk cheesemakers’ needs and goals.  Their aim is to improve the quality of American raw milk cheeses and the creating links between cheesemakers.

“The members of the Presidium operate on the belief that by respecting the diversity in their soil, pastures and woodlands, their herds and flocks, and the raw milk from their animals, they can produce cheeses that are as nutritious, safe, and wholesome to consume as they are flavorful. The Presidium Protocol developed in 2007 requires cheesemakers to meet stringent requirements. Presidium cheeses are all made with raw milk from humanely treated animals living on environmentally friendly farms. Each cheese has been evaluated for its overall quality to ensure that the cheese is delicious. To encourage new Presidium producers and to increase the quality of raw milk cheese production the Protocol commits each cheesemaker who becomes part of the Presidium to work actively towards meeting all of the criteria listed in this document within six years of joining.

A group of tasters, comprising Slow Food and cheesemaking experts, select the best raw milk farmstead cheeses each year from among participating producers. These cheeses will become the ambassadors of the project, representing the Presidium in different events and serving as an example of high quality for American producers. The Presidium has organized educational exchanges for cheesemakers, as well as tastings and promotional events.”

US Presidia : American Raw Milk Cheeses : Slow Food USA.

Anyone who has made their own cheese can relate to this story of the both successful and disastrous attempts at cheese making.  Expense is one reason people are learning to make their own cheese, but once you’ve tried to make fresh mozzarella, you’ll realize why everyone doesn’t do it.

A cheesemaker commented:

“You make a lot of bad cheese before you make good cheese,” says Kate Dallam, owner of Broom’s Bloom Dairy in Maryland”

But author Laura Vozzella ended up with a delicious ricotta she’ll make again.  A happy ending!

“My second batch was an even bigger flop. Instead of a solid, tofu-y mass, the milk formed a spongy Frisbee in a pot of whey.

Third time wasn’t quite a charm, but it was cheese. I formed the blob into a ball, let it cool, then had a taste.

It was mozzarella, all right. Chewy, supermarket-y mozzarella.

I’d make the ricotta again, and put the savings toward fresh mozzarella from the store. Whatever the store is charging, it’s a steal”

Trial and Many Errors in Home Cheese Making – San Jose Mercury News.

Here’s a great interview on the New England Cheesemaking Supply Company website with Jim Wallace, renowned cheesemaker and passionate cheese educator.  Thanks to his early interests in biology, beer and home renovation, he has become a cheesemaking megastar.  Fascinating!

Here’s an excerpt :

What are the trickiest things about making cheese?
The trickiest thing about making cheese is the ‘Game Plan’ .. trying to decide what your goal is and how to get there. I have seen so many cheeses that are in the style of and totally missed the mark. Once you have a clear idea of what it is you are making, the rest is just process and control. When I consult with a new farmstead cheese maker, the first step is always to stress the importance of looking at several options and to choose a couple of cheeses that they will truly be proud and happy to make (because it is too much work otherwise) … Then we set about making that perfect cheese.

What are the most common problems?
The most common problem for cheese makers is not knowing what the acid profile for the cheese should be or not following it. This along with a failure to achieve the targeted moisture content is the biggest reason for cheese to fail in the aging room.

Who is Jim Wallace ? … an interview.